Magiczne Miasta: Top 25 Charms in Starogard Gdański

Magic Miasto: Top 25 Charms in Starogard Gdański

Magiczne Miasta/Magic Towns is my series that brings you a genuine real life foreign tourist backpackers account of Polish town, village and city life. This place, Starogard Gdański in Pomerania Province, left quite the impression on me. Just look at its pretty square!

Backpacking in Starogard Gdanski - Rynek

Backpacking in Starogard Gdanski – the pretty Rynek

Backpacking in Starogard Gdański

Starogard Gdański – I headed here after my time in the beautiful city of Gdańsk, I knew Gdańsk wasn’t quite off the wall enough in Poland for me. I needed another Polish city with a few less tourists and some new discoveries away from the commercial tourism that runs through the major cities. This adventure was a bit more whackpacking instead of backpacking! #StarogardGdański #ilovestg

My journey to Starogard Gdanski took me through the village of Kokoszkowy

It was an exciting adventure to visit Starogard Gdański, inspired by a former travel friend, who I hoped that she would meet up, (as all my other travel friends in the last 14 years had done) show me around, give me travel tips etc. as promised. Sadly they were nasty to me and lied, so I was off on my adventure alone. Beforehand, I didn’t know much about Starogard Gdański, but in the end, I loved the town. I even compared it to my own hometown of Bangor in Northern Ireland and I’m glad that I was the first travel blogger to properly cover a backpacking visit to it when I first wrote about it in July 2016. It was such a brilliant visit that I got featured on the front page of the local newspaper here, Gazeta Kociewska. When I later returned to the town, local people in bars were aware of my stories and took time to chat to me. I have since developed a love and connection to the town.

My feature in the Gazeta Kociewska, Starogard Gdanski, POLAND

My journey to Starogard Gdański

To get to Starogard Gdański most people will head from the city of Gdańsk. I spent six months in Gdańsk and I decided to get the bus, though train is also an option, but the bus seemed easier to me as it goes closer to the town centre of Starogard Gdański and the train seemed less frequent.

There is a train station in Starogard Gdanski but I arrived by bus on my first visit.

There are two bus options as far as I can tell. Both buses have a lot of stops on the way and generally it takes just over an hour from Gdańsk Główny (main station). I hoped my travel friend in the area would have helped me source the bus route but she didn’t sadly:

Arrivia Linia NR 51
PKS Linia 400

The bus to Starogard Gdanski from Gdansk

Either you get the Arriva Linia Nr 51 bus or you get the PKS Linia 400. To mix things up, I got the Linia 400 on the way into Starogard Gdański, but coming back I got the Linia 51. The oddest thing was the Linia 51 is more like a coach – it’s the most comfortable of the two options, but it was the cheapest too! The Linia 51 cost me 6.90 złotys and the Linia 400 cost me 8 złotys and passed through Kokoszkowy on the way.

Arrival in Starogard

I was a bit tired and travel weary when I arrived in Starogard for the first time in July 2016.

Arrival in Starogard Gdański

Where to Stay in Starogard Gdański

In Starogard Gdański, there are no backpackers hostels or let’s be honest, even any backpackers, so I checked into the Noclegi Rekord! (nearest to a hostel) on my first visit and I later returned to the town for the Deyna pilgrimage and stayed at the trendy Hotel Ren that time.

1.Noclegi Rekord
This is kind of an odd hotel, as it’s connected to the sports stadium and club – I ended up becoming a fan of the local team, Klub Pilkarski Starogard as they play in green! The same colours as Northern Ireland.

Klub Pilkarski Starogard Gdanski

The Noclegi Rekord was a perfect spot for me for 3 days though, breakfast and WiFi included. It also has a kind of mini football museum, inspired not only by the team Klub Pilkarski but by the famous Kazimierz Deyna who hails from the town, making it another ridiculously up my street bed location from my endless journeys.

Noclegi Rekord – where I stayed overlooking the stadium

Kazimierz Deyna Bar at Noclegi Rekord

My room at Noclegi Rekord

2.Hostel Famil

Since my first visit in 2016, something amazing happened – Starogard now has a hostel!! So I had to go back and check it out. This place, Hostel Famil is run by local lady Agata and is simply superb.

Comfort at Hostel Famil: My Stay in The First and Only Hostel in Starogard Gdański

3.Hotel Ren
The Hotel Ren is the more upmarket and swanky option and I loved my stay here too. What is even more special about this hotel is that it has a brewery, freshly roasted coffee, bowling alley and spa within it. I also reviewed the brewery, known as Browar Kociewski.

Enjoying the Spa at Hotel Ren

Hotel Review: My Stay in The Swanky Hotel Ren in Starogard Gdański

My Room in The Swanky Hotel Ren in Starogard Gdański

About Starogard Gdański

Starogard Gdański is an average sized town of about 48,000 people. It is inland but has the river Wierzyca flowing through it. It is in the Pomerania Province. Starogard has been the capital of Starogard County in Pomeranian Voivodeship since 1999, but was previously a town in Gdańsk Voivodeship from 1975 to 1998. For me, the town has a beautiful name and it was a sentimental enchanting journey here.

Magic Miasto: Top 25 Charms in Starogard Gdański

Starogard Gdański reminded me of my home town of Bangor in Northern Ireland somehow. But I later found out it is twinned with Limerick in the Republic of Ireland! The name Starogard, you can work out – it means “old city” or “old stronghold” in the Pomeranian language. Again interesting as I have been to lots of cities and towns with a similar name – even Machu Picchu translates as “old mountain” and weirdly again, my birth town is the opposite – its name is Newtownards – the “new town in Ards”.

Downtown Starogard Gdanski – not to be confused with other Starogards or Stargards.

The reason they added the word Gdański in the 20th century is because Gdańsk is the largest nearby city, therefore this differentiates Starogard Gdański from other cities also known as Starogard. Literally, as someone learning Polish this translates as the Starogard of Gdańsk. There is also a Starogard near Szczecin, it is known as Stargard only though apparently, until December 2015, its official name was Stargard Szczeciński. I have so far visited Szczecin on my Poland adventures, but not yet Stargard Szczecinski.

Northern Irishman Tries to Speak Polish: My First Ever Video in Polish

So without further ado, and without the help of my fake friend, these are my top 25 (27!) things to check out when you visit Starogard Gdanski.

1.Rynek (Main Square/Market Square)

The Rynek is of course the main square and heart of this town. It has a happy vibe and there are very rarely tourists here. Around the Rynek are some cool bars, cafes and shops. There are also two of the churches on this list, plus the Ratusz – the Town Hall.

Night fall in the Rynek

The square is of perfect size, 107 x 107 metres. Allegedly the Town Hall is connected to dungeons and subterranean ways behind the city wall. There’s a little mystery in the air.

Dziwaczne Odkrycia: My First Polish Newspaper Appearance, A Feature in Gazeta Kociewska, Starogard Gdański

Backpacking in Starogard Gdański

2.River Wierzyca

The River Wierzyca runs through Starogard Gdański and you have many options to cross the river. There are lots of bridges and canals. I actually was staying on an island – Noclegi Rekord is on a mini island in the city! But you wouldn’t really know that when you are on it. You can go canoeing on the canals or jogging in leafy parks alongside the river.

River Wierzyca which runs through Starogard Gdański

3.Kościół sw Katarzyny (St. Catherine’s Church)

St. Catherine’s Church is easily the most distinctive church in Starogard Gdański, right on the corner by the Rynek and appearing in most photographs to promote the town. The city centre has a holy and pleasant feel and this church gives the place a real peace. It was quite soothing walking past this one every day.

Kościół sw Katarzyny (St. Catherine’s Church)

At a guess, I’d say it’s also the highest building in the city.

4.Parafia Rzymskokatolicka św. Mateusza (St. Matthew’s Church)

The Oldest Church in Starogard Gdański is St. Matthews. Inside it has a huge mural and outside a few plaques. I went into this one to pray during my time in Starogard Gdański and also attended the impressive Christmas Catholic mass here.

Parafia Rzymskokatolicka św. Mateusza (St. Matthew’s Church)

The Gothic features decorate from outside the inner forms, with baroque furnishings inside. It is considered to be the most valuable monument of medieval architecture in the town.

Parafia Rzymskokatolicka św. Mateusza (St. Matthew’s Church)

5. Kazimierz Deyna Stadium

A really cool yet surprising fact is that one of Poland’s greatest ever footballers came from Starogard Gdański, Kazimierz Deyna, an outstanding Poland international who died tragically in 1989. The local stadium is named after him and I was staying beside it! From my hotel room I could see the pitch and there was a huge tribute section to him there too.

Kazimierz Deyna Stadium, Starogard Gdanski

In the stadium grandstand you can meet Deyna himself, wearing a Polish national football team T-shirt, holding a football, looking at the pitch and encouraging young footballers who train there! Yes he has a statue in the stands!

Starogard Lad Kazimierz Deyna, total hero.

Unfortunately it is only the monument to the famous sportsman. It is of life size and it was made by a local artist and put on the grandstand to underline that one of the Poland’s greatest football players came from Starogard Gdański, this little known town. I was told that the team that play here, Włókniarz Starogard Gdański are now in the Polish fourth division. However there was also some confusion about the name of the team in this town, Wikipedia had it down as Wierzyca Starogard Gdański. Yet on Facebook and an internet search, all I could find was the green team I chose – Klub Pilkarski Starogard!

Starogard Lad Kazimierz Deyna, total hero.

I also embarked on the Kazimierz Deyna tour and attended a special match in honour of what would have been Deyna’s 70th Birthday…

At Deyna’s 70th Birthday Tribute Match

6.Ratusz (Town Hall)

The Town Hall is of yellow paint and red brick and distinctive in the heart of the Rynek. On the gable flies a flag of 1339, the year when Starogard got its coat of arms. Yes, this is an old town.

Ratusz (Town Hall)

I also visited at Christmas and the decorations outside are superb. This is a really pretty place.

Christmas at the Ratusz in Starogard Gdanski

Ratusz at Christmas

7.Urząd Miasta (City Hall)

Confusing? The odd thing about the name Urząd Miasta is that it means “City Hall” rather than Town Hall and yet there is already a Town Hall in the Rynek. This building is bigger and about 7-8 minutes walk north from the Rynek. It’s more like a council building but a pretty one none the less.

Urzad Miasta – Town Hall

8.Galeria Neptun

You probably will have noticed that every now and then, I whack a shopping centre into my top sights. The reason for this is I love to contrast the old to the new. I’m not totally against commericalism of course. I just prefer small businesses doing well for themselves.

Galeria Neptun

Galeria Neptun does have Subway and some brand name shops like H & M, but this Northern Irish dude loved the coffee shops for blogging. Free Wi-Fi, cheap coffee and only a few minutes walk from the Rynek. A big Carrefour nearby gets your shopping needs.

Galeria Neptun

9.Browar (Na Rynku)

I did a separate Piatkowe Picie on Starogard Gdański’s top bars as I did some cool partying here but if you only have time for a quick beer – Browar by the square is the one! A bar that sells its own locally brewed beer, has a nice interior, friendly staff, Wi-Fi and good food! Try the pierogi z spinakiem i serem and a good old pint of Starogardzie!

With the staff in Browar, Starogard Gdanski

The staff in Browar, Starogard Gdanski

Browar, Starogard Gdanski

Thanks to Gregorgz, Paulina, Marta and Olisia for your hospitality! I will be back…

Browar, Starogard Gdanski

Browar Na Rynku, Starogard

10.Pałac Wichertów

Right next to my hotel was this place – at first I didn’t give it much notice, but when I read up on it I realised this was an elaborate place that sadly is no longer open. You can only admire it from the outside.

Pałac Wichertów, Starogard Gdański

It was built by Franz Wichert in the 19th century. It’s an eclectic villa with a huge entrance arch and five statues at the front. It is also one of the sights on Starogard Gdanski’s tourist trail (all of which I “ticked off” of course).

Pałac Wichertów, Starogard Gdański

11.Baszta Gdanska (Gdansk Bastion)

You could be forgiven for walking past this and missing it, the Baszta Gdanska (Gdansk Bastion).

Baszta Gdanska (Gdansk Bastion)

It is a relic of gothic architecture from 1325 and was a strong defence point for the old city. Today the bastion defends and presents the treasures in the museum next door.

Baszta Gdanska (Gdansk Bastion)

12.Muzeum Ziemi Kociewskiej

This museum (next door to the Bastion) gives you the history of the region Kociewie, an ethnocultural region in the eastern part of Tuchola Forest. Check out the webpages at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kociewie and http://www.muzeum-kociewie.gda.pl/historia/historia.htm

13.Sąd Rejonowy

Buildings with character are notable on your walk through the city. This one, the Sąd Rejonowy is the district court house. It’s on the tourist trail as well and worth checking out.

Sąd Rejonowy

14.War Memorials

There are quite a few War Memorials in Starogard Gdanski so I’m putting them in as one sight here.

War Memorials, Starogard Gdanski

15.Słodka Dziupla

For some brilliant ice cream and waffles, head to Słodka Dziupla which has tables by the river in an idyllic setting. The ice cream is hugely popular.

Słodka Dziupla

16.Beer Garden in Rynek

Perhaps this was a summer line only, but I was able to relax on deck chairs in a mock beach, sip beer and listen to live music in the square. Seriously amazing!

Beer Garden in Rynek

At night there were movies on here and loud live music, including pornography some night. A raunchy bunch these Starogardians!

Starogard Gdanski’s Lively Summer Outdoor Beer Garden in the Rynek

17.Klubokawiarnia Szafa

With the meaning “Wardrobe Cafe”, this is a cosy place to relax and drink coffee. It’s only a few minutes walk from the Rynek and also has WiFi, good food and serves wine.

Klubokawiarnia Szafa

Coffee and Cake in Cafe Szafa

18.Parafia Rzymskokatolicka św. Wojciecha (Wojciech’s Church)

This church is south of the town centre and a leisurely dander through a park which also features a statue of Pope John Paul II. I mistook this for a Russian Orthodox Church at first due to the shape, but it’s definitely a Roman Catholic Church. The road here is also named after the hero John Paul II, Polish pope who died in 2005.

Parafia Rzymskokatolicka św. Wojciecha (Wojciech’s Church)

19.Baszta Tczewska

A second Bastion on the list is called Baszta Tczewska. Rather than red brick, this is a white and black building attached to where the old town walls once where.

Baszta Tczewska

20.Wrzoskiewicz Lodziarnia Ice Cream Parlour

I hope I have spelt this correctly. While walking through the city centre, I encountered the Wrzoskiewicz Ice Cream Parlour so I went in for coffee and ice cream. The lady working here, Klaudia let me try some beetroot ice cream, which was good! This is probably the first time I have included two ice cream parlours in a top 20 post, but the bars will be in a separate article, this Thursday so look out for that!

Wrzoskiewicz Lodziarnia Ice Cream Parlour

21.Kazimierz Deyna Mural

As well as my visit to the football stadium, I also went to the Kazimierz Deyna mural, situated on the wall of his childhood home.

Kazimierz Deyna Mural

22.Areszt Śledczy – Prison

As bizarre as it sounds, slap bang in the middle of the town, sandwiched oddly between a swanky modern shopping centre (Galeria Neptun) and the Sąd Rejonowy is this huge unmissable prison. With barbed wire all round and grotesque windows on a grey and silver building, it incites no touristic love affairs, but it’s still one to walk past and stare into a world you don’t know. Here is the website – http://www.sw.gov.pl/pl/okregowy-inspektorat-sluzby-wieziennej-gdansk/areszt-sledczy-starogard-gdanski/index,44.html

Areszt Śledczy – Prison

23.Browar Kociewski

As featured in my “Piątkowe Picie” series, Browar Kociewski is the coolest place in the town for a beer, despite its location away from the town centre. It is a brewery housed inside the swanky Hotel Ren (which I also reviewed) and has its own beer on tap in a cosy lounge area.

Piątkowe Picie: A Night Out at Browar Kociewski, Starogard Gdański

(NOW CLOSED – 24.Projekt PRL)

Sadly Projekt PRL is now closed, it was a cool socialist style bar with quirky decor including old records and gramophones on the wall and items relating to the communist era in days gone by in Starogard Gdanski. A favourite bar of mine from my visit and also recommended by locals. I also included this in my list of PRL style bars.

Projekt PRL – Sadly now closed, and renamed

Jacek and I in Projeckt PRL in Starogard Gdanski.

25.Cafe Anka

The coolest cafe in town which sadly also closed in 2016. There is a sadness with that but new ones have opened, and the best of these is Dzienna Dawka Kawiarnia.

Cafe Anka – favourite but it’s now closed.

26.Sobieski Vodka Factory

Although not a fan of Vodka, I did head to the famous Sobieski Distillery. Yes, it’s true – the birthplace of vodka can be found in Poland dating back to the early Middle Ages. And vodka (Polish: wódka), is not only the official national drink of Poland, it is the centerpiece of Polish life, enjoyed at most every celebration and occasion. In fact, in this land where vodka began, Sobieski is the number one premium vodka and it all began here in Starogard Gdanski!

http://www.vodkasobieski.com/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sobieski_(vodka)

Sobieski Vodka Factory

As you can tell that was a top 26, but there are 2 other sights for next time – which I will check out.

27. Kocborowo (Szpital dla Nerwowo i Psychicznie Chorych im. S. Kryzana)

For a mental home, the psychiatric hospital here has a sad history – Kocborowo, provincial mental hospital “Kocborowo” – in the 1939-1944 era, Germans murdered 2842 patients, of which 1680 were shot or killed by deadly shots by the ss of the so-called “SS Heimwehr Danzig ” in the woods near Gdansk Starogardu (September 1939-January 1941) with continued exterminations, during the years 1942-1944, again the grotesque nature of the German and Russian influences on Polish history, I aim to cover more, and have also done in my writings on Westerplatte, Stutthof and Auschwitz.

28.WRC Fitline

A cool new business in Starogard Gdański, dedicated to interesting food recipes and nuts. Worth checking out their website – WRC Fitline and Facebook Page. It is a brand created with passion for healthy eating and sporty lifestyle.

WRC Fitline Starogard Gdanski

Here are some more photos of Starogard Gdański, as you can tell I really enjoyed my time here. I made a lot of new friends here but sadly was also lied to by a fake friend. That was the first ever “friend” from my 14 year journey to disrespect my professionalism, my blog and my story to their town. I had to make some new friends instead and managed to get front page in the local newspaper too. Nearby, I also visited little Kokoszkowy the village of Rywald, the town of Tczew , famous Malbork and holy Pelplin.

Magiczne Miasta: Top 25 Charms in Starogard Gdański

My trip to the town of Starogard Gdanski was inspired by a tourist I once knew. The dream is to meet that tourist again someday for a drink in this town as we didn’t get the chance on this trip.

Here are some videos from my time backpacking in Starogard Gdański: